Local Food Heroes Blog

Thursday, 02 09 10 - 20:38

Genoa Salami

To try out my new drying fridge I wanted a simple salami recipe and chose one of Len Poli's (adobe .pdf file). It's a Genoa salami, but it's not of Italian origin; the famous Italian salami from the Genoa area is Salame Sant'Olcese, this recipe's wholly American.

I adapted the recipe slightly to use cure #1 and saltpetre instead of cure 2, also to replace the wine as my wife can't have alcohol and to increase the salt slightly. I also used acidophilus instead of the starter cure. Ridiculous though it may seem, the starter cultures used in the US aren't available in the UK even though the Danish manufacturer has UK offices. I normally use Bessastart or LS-25 instead, but in the absence of either, acidophilus is an acceptable substitute.

The meat was stuffed into 60mm casings as against the 100mm ones in the original recipe. They were fermented for 48 hours and have been drying for a further 4 days:

So far, I'm pleased with the way the new curing chamber/fridge is working. I guess that the final "proof of the pudding" will be in the tasting though. I am slightly worried that I have estimated the airflow incorrectly - this can result in the outside hardening before the inside of the salami is dry. For fear of this, I've set the fan to operate only when the fridge motor is running, rather than continuously.

Saturday, 28 08 10 - 14:30

Air drying Meat, Pickled Walnuts and Gin

Air drying Fridge

Posts have been pretty scarce around here lately. It's not that I've not been doing things; just that I haven't got around to writing about them.

The redesign of my 'drying' fridge has taken up a lot of my time - mainly because I'm not very good when it comes to anything that involves DIY skills! However, it's up and running again and although it will need a further modification (to remove a large dehumidifier that's inside it), it's working well.

The major change has been to install digital rather than analogue controls; they're far more accurate. I've also installed two humidity controls so that I can set the humidifier and dehumidifier to run independently. Designing the control box was a kerfuffle, but with the help of my friendly neighbourhood electronics expert (a friend with his own electronic controls company), I have finally got my head 'around' relays and other such electronic gizmos. The controls are now also housed in a wooden box kindly made for me by a neighbour. It still needs a coat of paint but that can come later:

It's seen here running at high temperature (23°C) and humidity (82%) during the fermentation stage of a Genoa type salami. I'll post the recipe and method when I see how they turn out.

Pickled Walnuts

Something I'd forgotten to write about is the batch of pickled walnuts I made in July. It's too late now to make them, you'll have to wait until next year as you have to pick them when they still have their green outer covering - before the shell has started to form.

The walnuts are put into a brine of 150gm salt to 1 litre water and left for a week. This process is then repeated with a fresh brine. After the second week you drain the walnuts and leave them in the sun(?) or at least somewhere dry for a day until they go black. They are then bottled in boiled and cooled spiced vinegar. Simples!

Sloe Gin

One thing that it's too late to make - and one that it's a little to early for; it'll soon be time to start sloe gin off on it's merry way to sloe heaven. That reminds me, I must get around to straining the lot I made last year. Self-restraint or what...

...well neither - the fact is that I clean forgot it was there!

Saturday, 28 08 10 - 13:37

Gilmorton Chandler C of E Primary School, Food for Life Open Day

Gilmorton Chandler C of E Primary School are holding a 'Food for Life Open Day' on Saturday 2nd October 2010 from 2 to 4pm. Andrew Shields, Assistant Headteacher says:

Gilmorton Chandler C of E Primary School has become a Food for Life Flagship Primary School (www.foodforlife.org.uk ), the only one in the County. As part of their remit for this prestigious award they are required to “spread the word” with the local community and share what they do at school; share the idea of buying locally produced organic and free range food, of improving the food we eat, building upon our knowledge of where food comes from, learning how to grow your own food, etc.

The purpose of the open day (which we are linking into our overall Harvest festival of activities), is for the public and children/parents to meet local food producers, buy locally produced food, learn about food for life, look around the school’s growing areas, attend small work shops on organic gardening and allotments etc.

We would like to invite you to have a stall, where you will be able to advertise and sell your produce. There will be a nominal charge of £5 for your stall and all proceeds will go towards the children’s growing activities, enhancing their education.

If you are interested in having a stall please could you telephone Rebecca Scott who is our Chair of FOGS (Friends of Gilmorton School) on 01455 209713.

It looks like a great opportunity for producers to showcase their products to the next generation of consumers and their parents.

Thursday, 12 08 10 - 16:59

Calling all Food Producers

I got a message today via the comments form that may interest some of you food producers:

Hello!!!

We are Fabrika, Leicester's community interest arts centre. We are volunteer ran and not-for-profit!

On the first Saturday of each month we hold a craft fair in our gallery. Starting from September we would like to welcome producers of local and organic food stuffs to join us in the upstairs gallery space. Local musicians also attend the event providing entertainment, so we can guarantee you a lovely day!

Stalls are £10 when booked paid for in advance, £15 on the day, although space is limited so get in early and save money and disappointment!!!

Call Esta on 07919 153152 for more details.

Sunday, 08 08 10 - 20:13

British Sausage Week 2010

What: British Sausage Week 2010

When: Monday 1st to Sunday 7th November 2010

Where: Nationwide

Who: Organised by the British Sausage Appreciation Society

The most hotly anticipated food event of the year, British Sausage Week 2010, launches on Monday 1st November.

To celebrate British Sausage Week, independent butchers and supermarkets alike will be running events and special offers and look out for special sausage themed menus in local pubs and restaurants. For those looking to experiment with sausages at home, the British Sausage Appreciation Society will be launching their new and exclusive recipe booklet for 2010.

Visit www.Britishsausageweek.com for recipes and further information about the week.

Thursday, 05 08 10 - 19:53

Belgrave Hall Good Food Fair - 18/19th September 2010

Belgrave Hall Good Food Fair will take place on Saturday and Sunday the 18/19th September 2010 at Belgrave Hall, Leicester from 11.00am to 4.00pm. Admission: Adults £1.00 / Children free. Free parking is available at Jelsons, Loughborough Road (opposite Lidl) a two minute walk from the museum.

James Hickford, Arts & Museums Marketing Officer at Leicester City Councils says:

Discover fantastic locally grown produce and organic foods in the beautiful gardens of Belgrave Hall Museum on Saturday 18th & Sunday 19th September.

Over this late summer weekend the normally tranquil museum gardens will be transformed into a bustling market place, showcasing the best of local growers and food producers.

The ever-popular Belgrave Hall Good Food Fair heralds the start of the Leicester andLeicestershire Food Fortnight. 2010 marks the fifth year of this successful Food Fair that attracted over 2,700 visitors last year.

Treat yourself to scrumptious home made cakes, ice creams made from real milk, delicious hand made chocolates, spicy samosas and pots of jam made from local fruit. For chilli lovers there’s a wide choice of Indian foods and Charnwood Chilli, our local growers and suppliers of chilli plants, seeds, homemade sauces, chutneys and pickles.

Also a chance to find out how our ancestors preserved fresh food and try some tasty potted treats with The Victorian Cook talking about ‘Pots, reserves and Pies’.

Food Fair organiser and Museum Gardens Officer Valerie Hartley said “In 2005 we had half a dozen local food producers for a Sunday afternoon fair; this has grown in popularity each year with both producers and visitors, people return year after year.”

“It’s a very friendly event, you get the opportunity to talk to the people growing, making and baking this food, to find out exactly what goes into it and where the ingredients are sourced. We all know how important it is to cut down on food miles and this is the ideal opportunity to buy food that hasn’t travelled far, and may just have been picked that morning and to support our local hard working businesses at the same time.”

This year sees the return of many of our regular favourites such as Picks Organic Farm Shop with their tempting hot homemade Dexter burgers, Old Spot sausage cobs and vege breakfast rolls; Lilliput Preserves who offer a huge choice of chutneys, jams, curds, marmalades, relishes and pickles and the intriguing Witch’s Garden offering culinary and medicinal herb plants and herb products.

New for this year include Livesey Brothers who produce a selection of exotic mushrooms at their farm near Ashby de la Zouch. Previously many Exotic Mushrooms were only available through imports from across the world making them expensive and generally of poor quality. However, these are now grown at Lowerfields Farm by Tim and Simon Livesey reducing the food miles and improving the quality. "As we introduce another species to our range it's another one less that has to be imported," said Tim Livesey.

Find out more about food production with Leicestershire Food Links, Transition Leicester, RSPB, the Sowing New Seeds project from Garden Organic and on Sunday check out Corner Plot’s honeybee hive. Visit our website for more details of stallholders attending over the weekend.

For further details see the Belgrave Hall Food Fair Website.   

Friday, 30 07 10 - 20:21

More Tea Vicar!

Contrary to popular belief, I don't spend all my life in scruffy trousers, shoes held together with gaffer tape and a tatty old top. Yes, occasionally, very occasionally, I'm put in the bath, dusted down and dressed up 'all posh', generally when I've been press-ganged by the kids into doing something to celebrate a birthday/anniversary or similar event that I'd rather not. Unfortunately, when it comes to Mrs Young's major milestones in life, ignoring them is not an option; well it is, but I don't like hospital food! This is how I ended up agreeing to go for a nice afternoon at Coombe Abbey Country Park followed by afternoon tea at the Coombe Abbey Hotel.

Now, having stayed at Coombe Abbey for my nephew's wedding last year I had mixed feelings about the place; the actual wedding breakfast and reception were superb and the staff super helpful in a non-intrusive way, but the breakfast was pretty poor with the worst black pudding I have ever had the misfortune to eat. That alone would be enough to put me off but the worst thing about the whole place is that it's as dark as the proverbial black hole of Calcutta! OK maybe in the public areas, but when it extends to the bedrooms it's beyond a joke. They're obviously trying to create a medieval ambience, but to me, it's just plain dark; if you've got a medieval characterful building then at least let me see it!

Fortunately, the teas are served in the Garden Restaurant, a large conservatory which is light and airy. The tea itself was superb, great service and superb food. The cakes were well made and the scones as light as a feather. I really couldn't fault it; small sandwiches of ham and tomato, smoked salmon, and cucumber were followed by almond and cherry cake, lemon drizzle cake, scones with clotted cream and jam, and millionaires shortcake. Granted, not the most 'delicate' of teas; no dainty éclairs, Mille-feuille or fruit tarts, but none the worse for that! It's a great way to spend an afternoon and if you don't fancy the full McCoy they also offer a cream tea of scones with clotted cream and jam.

On the subject of Coombe Abbey, I have to say how impressed I am with their adaption of the Grade 1 listed building for wheelchair users. Whilst there are obviously limitations to what can be done due to the nature of the building, which leads to access to certain areas being by convoluted routes, they have ensured that all the main facilities are accessible. Many other hotels will lesser constraints should take note.

Wednesday, 28 07 10 - 19:53

Egg and Bacon Pie

I came across this recipe on The Cottage Smallholder. What caught my eye was the fact that all the ingredients are assembled raw and then cooked together. This makes it far less time consuming than other recipes which cook the filling separately before assembly. The only change I made from the original was the addition of about 8 more rashers of bacon. Four rashers to 12 eggs is just plain mean!

The pie was certainly easy to make and the end result was enough to feed a battalion. I'll certainly make it again but think that St. Delia's recipe for Egg and Bacon Pie has the edge - however, yet again the filling on the mean side.

Wednesday, 28 07 10 - 19:16

New Food Magazine

Leicestershire and Rutland now have their very own dedicated food magazine.

Enjoy Great Food Leicestershire and Rutland will be delivered free to 12,000 selected properties in Leicestershire and Rutland on a bi-monthly basis. Subscription, for those not lucky enough to receive it for nothing, is £15 annually.

The sample issue shows a professional approach with a wide variety of topics spanning both local produce and dining. My concern is that, with an advertising funded magazine, reviews may not be as 'honest' as they could be - only time will tell whether this is so. However, so far the magazine is well written with superb photography; Local Food Heroes wishes it a long and successful future.

For further details visit the Enjoy Great Food Leicestershire and Rutland Website

Monday, 05 07 10 - 00:00

Elderflower Cordial Update

The elderflower cordial that I made using this recipe was strained and bottled after 5 days. I considered adding a campden tablet to prevent it fermenting but decided to risk it in the fridge without.

It's great with sparkling water added and also makes a superb sorbet.

Monday, 28 06 10 - 17:35

Salmon Mousse with quick Mayonnaise

You know how it is, your mate Maurice rings up from the market to tell you that they've got big bunches of dill for sale for a quid, so you ask the wife to get the two tail ends of salmon out of the freezer with the intention of making Gravadlax only to realise, when it's defrosted, that one, there's three pieces of fish not two, and two, it's too thin to be worth the effort of curing it. Little things like this are the stuff my life's made of! The dill got stuffed into a bottle of vinegar; I'll use it later in the year for pickling: that left three pieces of salmon so hence this recipe for a salmon mousse!

So what to use for a mousse? Salmon? Check. Eggs? Check. Double cream? Check - oops, un-check, we need it for the strawberries. Something similar? Yoghurt? Check - oops, un-check, it's grown a fir coat. Herbs? Check, there's fennel and parsley in the garden, either will be suitable. Cream cheese? No, we've scoffed it! Mayonnaise? That's it, I'll make some Mayonnaise:

Quick Mayo

I used a 'stick' blender for this, you could also use a liquidizer or food processor but add the oil gradually whilst whisking - likewise if you make it by hand.

Put a whole egg into the goblet that came with the stick blender, or suitable alternative, and add about ¼ tsp Dijon mustard, a pinch of salt & pepper, and a few splashes of vinegar or lemon juice. Add ½ pint of oil (I used a light rape seed oil for this; olive would have overpowered the salmon), then mix it on full power. If it's too thick add a drop or two of water. Adjust seasoning, vinegar, or lemon to taste.

The Mousse

8 - 10 oz Cooked salmon
4 oz Mayonnaise
3 Egg whites
Salt and pepper
1 tbsp (1 sachet) Gelatine dissolved in warm water
Lemon or vinegar to taste
A couple of tablespoons of chopped dill or other green herb

Purée the salmon with a stick blender or food processor keeping an ounce or two of the salmon aside if you don't want a completely smooth mousse. Mix with the Mayonnaise. Whisk the egg whites until almost at the 'stiff peak' stage and fold into the salmon mixture along with the gelatine and herbs and any salmon put aside previously (strain the gelatine to remove any bits). Season to taste. Pour into a lightly oiled mould and leave in the fridge to set.

This recipe is fairly versatile, as well as just eating it with a salad you could present it in the style of a cold souffléé or using a salmon mould. You could also line ramekins with smoked salmon and make salmon parcels for a starter or fill rolls of smoked salmon with it and present salmon cigars as a canapé - the possibilities are endless. I'm also fairly sure that it will be fine made with whipped cream or yoghurt; I fancy trying it with yoghurt, I think that it's tangy flavour would offset the 'earthiness' of the salmon very well.

Friday, 25 06 10 - 19:39

Elderflower Cordial

A recent post on a forum about self-sufficiency reminded me that it's elderflower season. It always seems to pass me by, even though there's a big bush 10 yards from my window!

I've tried drying elder-flowers before, when I used to make a lot of wine, it wasn't the greatest success; this time I decided to make an elderflower cordial. It's simplicity itself using this recipe that's an amalgamation of various ones from books and the internet.

To every 10 heads of elder-flowers (big green stalks removed) you need 600ml boiling water, ½ Lemon, 1 teaspoon Citric Acid and 750gm White Sugar. Put everything except the elder-flowers into a large bowl and stir until dissolved, then leave to cool. Add the elder-flowers and mix well. Skim off any bits that don't look as if they belong! Cover with a clean cloth and leave for 4 or 5 days, stirring twice a day.

I made a double the recipe amount, seen here before I got all the naughty bits off the top...

...to be continued

Thursday, 24 06 10 - 17:42

Pick Your Own Fruit

The PYO season has started in earnest with most places now picking strawberries.

As always there is a massive variation of prices depending on where you buy - some are over £1 a kilo cheaper than others. Obviously, the distance you need to travel will be a consideration, but if you're in the north of the County, check out Wymeswold Fruit Farm on the A6006 between Wymeswold and the A46.

Their prices for strawberries are incredibly good value at £2.40 per kilo - that's only about £1.10 a pound!

Saturday, 19 06 10 - 14:43

Mortadella with Pistachios

It's great to get back to doing some real sausage making. We're fast running out of ham, bacon and sausage from my last mammoth session, so it's time to clear all the frozen meat out of the freezer to make way for the next lot.

Given that the meat's been frozen, it shouldn't then be refrozen unless it's been cooked - making fresh sausage is therefore a no, no. I was going to make hot dogs, but the weather looked a bit iffy and I'm very much a fair weather smoker, so that left a choice of the many and various other cooked sausages/luncheon meats.

I enjoy making emulsified sausages, not least because they taste good, but also because no-one expects you to. Big headed, I know: I don't care, it makes me feels good!

Mortadella is a traditional Italian cooked pork sausage that varies in size from quite small to massive. It's major characteristic is the small pieces of fat dispersed throughout it. To be 'traditional' these should make up at least 15% of the total sausage - this version has less. The addition of pistachios or pine nuts is optional.

I take no credit for the recipe, it came to me via Jason Molinari who I understand got it from a book by Paul Bertolli: no doubt it's had a few tweaks on the way! Salt seemed to have been omitted along the way - the amount I added was too little, I will increase it next time - I have altered the recipe to reflect this.

I won't say that the recipe is easy, it isn't. However, there's nothing difficult about it if you're careful. The cardinal rule is that everything must be kept very cold.

Here's a very 'snatched' photo of the finished product perched on the edge of the fridge. Trust me to find a bit with badly dispersed nuts and fat, and air-holes to boot!

Ingredients

Pork Shoulder 630 gm
Pork Fat (1) 420 gm (Hard fat from the back or throat)
Crushed Ice 310 gm
Garlic Powder 1.7 gm
Dextrose 15 gm
Mace 2 gm
Coriander 1 gm
Cinnamon 1 gm
Cayenne 1 gm
Cubed fat (2) 75 gm
Pistachio nuts 25 gm (weighed after shelling and peeling)
Black Pepper lightly Crushed 2 gm
Salt 23 gm
Cure #1 1.9 gm

Method

Firstly get everything really cold. Put your pork fat (1) in to the freezer for about an hour before you will use it, put the pork shoulder in to join it for about ½ hour. If you can get your mincer and food processor attachments in as well, all the better.

Cut the Pork Fat (2) into small cubes and blanch them in boiling water for a couple of minutes, cool in iced water and drain. Return them to a cold fridge.

Shell the pistachios then pour boiling water over them and leave them for one minute. The brown skins should now slip off quite easily. Refresh them in iced water then dry.

Weigh out your dry ingredients.

Mince the pork and pork fat (1) separately through the medium plate on your mincer, then mince again through the finest plate you have. If, like me, you don't have a mincer plate smaller than 4.5mm, mince three times through this plate. With a small mincer you may want to put the meat and fat back into the fridge between mincings. (I didn't because I have a large powerful mixer that doesn't heat the meat up like a small one may).

Return the meat to the freezer for 10 - 15 minutes.

If you've not had your food processor bowl in the freezer, cool it with some ice. I crushed my ice in the processor but I'm not sure that this does the blade any good!

Put the pork shoulder in the food processor with ½ the ice and all the other ingredients except the pork fat, pistachios and the black pepper. Process it until it's a smooth emulsion. Check the temperature often, stop if it gets to 8°C. Add the pork fat (1) and the remaining ice and process until it becomes a smooth paste. Do not let the temperature rise above 15°C

In a bowl, mix together the meat paste, pork fat (2), pistachios and black pepper.

Fill into a large casing, maybe a beef (ox) bung or cap, try to avoid air pockets, tie the casing tightly when filled: I used a 90mm collagen casing, 120mm would be better.

Poach in water at 75 - 80°C until the internal temperature has been at, or just over 68°C, for at least 10 minutes. You could bake it at 75 - 80°C instead (but not with a collagen casing: they melt!).

Cool it quickly in iced water. When cool put it in the fridge for a day for the flavours to mingle.

This sausage contains none of the binders or phosphates so often used in this type of sausage to 'lock in the fat and water'. It relies entirely on careful formation of an emulsion between the water and fat, along with careful cooking, so as not to split. The chemical reactions are similar to those found when making mayonnaise.

The recipe made a sausage approximately 10 inches long (250mm) in a 90mm casing. For larger sausages/casings you will need to increase the quantities - but make sure that you have a pot large/wide enough to cook it in!

Friday, 11 06 10 - 16:16

Bacon and Musings

I recently posted a bacon tutorial that I wrote for the sausage making forum. The recipe used was an amalgamation of a few already posted by myself and others, as such it was a compromise in that, whilst it makes very nice bacon, it is a little sweet for some people. The recipe I use most regularly differs in that it's slightly more salty and has less sugar. The method and other instructions are exactly the same as in the tutorial.

For 1kg of meat use:

22gm Salt
8gm Sugar
2.5gm Cure #1
0.5gm Sodium ascorbate (optional)

Use the cure pro rata for other weights of meat adding whatever herbs and spices you like. To aid calculation you can use this cure calculator:

Plans and the NHS

There's been a paucity of posts around here for a while; the reason is that I have not been too well of late - nothing serious, but some digestive problems followed by a lousy cold have meant that I've hardly been in the kitchen for a while.

I've got quite a bit of meat in the freezer so will be making either hot dogs or some form of luncheon meat shortly; hot dogs if the weathers fine enough for me to be in the garden to smoke them: luncheon meat otherwise. My neighbour's kindly made me a new box to house the controls for my drying fridge so I'll also be writing about that, when I finally go to merchants for the electrical bits that I need.

What did catch my eye recently is that Nottingham's City Hospital and Queens Medical Centre have started sourcing much of their food from the local area; they're not only getting better produce but are saving £2.50 per patient a day, some 6 million pounds a year. If other hospital trusts did the same it would save the NHS some 400 million pounds a year, and not only that, it would also bring much needed jobs and income to their local area. As the kids say, "It's a no brainer!".